Located close to the Vatican City and with its quiet cobbled streets and laid-back atmosphere, Borgo Pio feels like an Italian village not part of the busy streets of Rome at all.
And, in fact, that’s what it once was. Pope Benedict XVI made his home here and many families moved into the area to be close to the Vatican and to the River Tiber.
Today, Borgo, as it’s called locally, is a nostalgic district of the city that feels like “old Rome.” Many tourists walk through Borgo on their way to and from the Vatican, but this pretty little district is much more than a place to pass through.
Here’s what to see, eat, and do in Borgo Pio.
Overlooking the River Tiber in majestic glory, Castel Sant’Angelo, or Castle of the Angel, is the only castle in Rome and has a long and varied history.
It was originally built in the 2nd century as the tomb of Emperor Hadrian, and it was added to and rebuilt upon to form a fortress. It was once used as a prison, later a concert hall, and is now a museum.
A tour of Castel Sant’Angelo is a walk through history. The tomb is the central attraction, but there are also altering exhibitions and a walk up to the top terraces of the castle gives you an incredible view over Rome.
All areas of Rome have many fountains to discover in their winding streets, and Borgo is no exception to this. The area’s old drinking fountain, Fontana dell’Aqcaua Marcia, has a carving of the Papal Stem with two keys crossed over on it, which is an unusual carving.
Look for Fontana delle Tiare at the border between Borgo and St Peter’s Square. It features stone carvings of papal tiaras, the crowns worn by popes of the Catholic Church from the 8th century to the 20th century (hence the fountain’s name), and a series of large keys around its middle.
A more unusual carving for this area can be found on Fontana delle Palle di Cannnone. This stone fountain features a large face, with water pouring from its mouth, surrounded by cannon balls, most likely a link to the nearby Castel Sant’Angelo. Definitely worth a photo!
As it’s a little quieter in Borgo Pio than in central Rome, the shopping experiences here are pleasanter and more relaxed.
It’s mostly aimed at locals, so you’ll find a lot of authentic supermarkets and small food and drink stores. There are also a few religious goods shops, reflecting the area’s close proximity to the Vatican.
There’s a bookshop and a couple of clothing stores, but perhaps the best thing is the leather goods shops. I found a couple of leather stores when I was there, and they were my favorite stores in the area. There are also some small local sewing shops that are interesting, but most of the shops here are used by locals, so don’t expect lots of touristy souvenirs.
The food scene is steadily improving in Borgo. It was once hard to find anywhere to eat in the area, compared to central Rome, but slowly restaurants are opening up and gelato shops are becoming more frequent.
For a real traditional restaurant in Borgo, serving authentic Roman dishes, head to Arlu. It’s been family run since 1959, so it’s one of the older restaurants in the area. They still make their own bread onsite, and there’s none of the pushiness central Rome suffers from.
For great pizzas try Borgo Nuovo, a traditional pizzeria with pavement seating for watching the slow pace of Borgo go by.
Bars and cafes are pretty much interchangeable in Rome, and in Borgo Pio you can find a bar, café, and pastry shop all rolled into one.
At Bar Latteria Guiliani, you can sit on the pavement with an Italian breakfast, stop for coffee mid-morning, enjoy a panini at lunch, and come back in the evening to sip mimosas.
In the Soup might look and sound like it’s a very traditional soup and tartare joint, and it is, but don’t be fooled. In the evening this quaint little bar with just a handful of bar stools turns into the place to go for cocktails, even if it might be standing room only.
For a small area, there are a surprising number of gelato shops in Borgo Pio.
Cremilla, close to Castel Sant’Angelo, is a fairly new ice cream shop, only opened in 2018. It was a tough time to open, but they’ve survived the pandemic, finding ways to continue selling ice cream through lockdowns, and they are now thriving.
If you like a traditional Italian gelato shop, Hedera is an old favorite and much loved by locals. The ice cream is top quality, and, impressively, they also serve lactose-free options.
This is not central Rome. Although over time Borgo is getting more popular with tourists, if you’re looking for the hustle and bustle of the busy city, this isn’t it. However, if you want to get out of the city and spend some quiet time in a more traditional setting, Borgo is charming.
It’s easy to find Borgo, as it’s right next to the Vatican. You can walk to it from the center of Rome, if you like walking, and it will take around 50 minutes.
You can also take the number 62 bus, which takes around 15 minutes, depending on traffic, or the subway, which takes a little longer at around 20 minutes. A taxi is the quickest way to get to Borgo and it should take just under 10 minutes from central Rome, depending on the level of traffic.
Now you’re armed with a few pointers on what to see and do and where to eat and drink in Borgo Pio. The best way to experience the area for yourself is to walk the streets and discover your favorite things to see and do.
Looking for more to do nearby? Take a guided tour of the Vatican Museums and be astounded by the gilded walls, painted ceilings, and art everywhere. It’s glorious.
